Among other things, it's remarkable that a company in which General Motors has a stake should build a 4x4 so completely unlike your average muscle-bound, commercial-based American SUV. Subaru follows its own track, and, while other manufacturers may be on a parallel line, the two groups never quite seem to come to a junction.The Forester remains the only large-scale 4x4 based on a saloon platform. As mentioned in our original launch review of the latest version, this means that the Subaru is still almost laughably more competent on tarmac than its rivals. Sure, it accepts that serious rough-terrain performance is almost completely irrelevant in this class - that is, for owners rather than for specialist journalists on escorted japes - but it's fine for mild off-roading.Also as reported before, the Forester XT takes this attitude to an unusual length, by giving up on the low-ratio transfer box fitted to the less powerful X model, which is regarded by its builders as more of a workhorse.That's the only thing the XT gives up. Among the features it adds to the X specification (as well as a £4550 price premium) is a turbocharger which puts more than 50bhp onto the power output, and transforms the performance. We're talking here about a 4x4 which will sprint to 62mph in under eight seconds.Many a sport utility couldn't cope with that kind of performance once the roads start getting twisty, but that's exactly when the Forester XT comes into its own. Thanks to its full-time saloon-style four-wheel drive and the centre-of-gravity benefits of Subaru's flat-four engine layout, it's even more impressive in those situations. And the wider track does it no harm.There's simply nothing on the conventional 4x4 market, even rival models we've praised before, with the kind of poise and balance this car displays. It's a sports saloon under fairly heavy disguise, and I'm not at all surprised that one of my CARkeys colleagues fancies an XT as his all-year transport.Certainly, as winter begins to close in, that all-wheel traction, nimble handling, superior stability, ABS and decent ground clearance make particular sense. Four-wheel drive isn't just about battling over specially-prepared assault courses.The latest Forester may have been criticised in some quarters for its side-on appearance, but it looks pretty smart from the front, and there's no confusing the X with the XT, thanks to the more powerful car's sizeable bonnet air scoop. Aerodynamics have also been improved.There's a better range of exterior colours than Subaru previously bothered with. The interior design has been freshened up too, instead of seeming to be the thing about which Subaru people used to say, with a click of the fingers: "Dammit, I knew there was something we forgot about before sending these cars to the showrooms."More cabin space in a car which is marginally shorter than its predecessor is another improvement. Altogether, the latest model is much more attractive than the plain-Jane version it replaces, and there are other little touches which suggest that Subaru has been paying attention to customer requirements: even smoother-acting doorhandles.Economy and emissions haven't always been Subaru priorities, but the latest cars in its various catalogues have been improved here. Even the characteristic beat of the flat-four engine heading for the high revs seems to be more subdued. In turbocharged form it can't compete in low-range pull with a turbo diesel, but 180lb/ft of torque at 3200rpm isn't to be sneezed at, and there's a lot of towing power there.The latest Forester may seem to have been the subject of an inordinate number of launches. That's because the American-spec models were introduced in early February at the Chicago Show, and the Japanese versions were unveiled just days later.European Foresters were premièred at Geneva in March, left-hand drive versions went on sale across the Continent in September, but the right-hand drive UK cars turned up only in October. They've been well worth waiting for.Second opinion: In the last week, two people have asked me to name my favourite car, and they were both nonplussed when I told them it was this one. I don't think the Forester is by any means perfect - it's quite expensive to run, some of the interior trim feels a bit flimsy, and the gearchange is hardly the smoothest around - but it handles better over a wider range of road conditions than any other car I can think of. And in this form it seems to have exactly the correct amount of power for the chassis, no more and no less. In tarmac driving terms it not only blows every other SUV out of the water; I also think it's better than the Impreza on which it's based. An extraordinary car. David Finlay. Engine 1994cc, 4 cylinders Power 174bhp Fuel/CO2 28.8mpg / 235g/km Acceleration 0-62mph: 7.9 seconds Top speed 125mph Price £20,745 Details correct at publication date